Bagan? It’s a name on many an intrepid traveller’s lips but is still a place steeped in mystery that few people could pinpoint on a map. This is the hidden gem of Myanmar (formerly Burma) itself still virtually unknown to the outside world, but as its government flirts with big business and moves slowly towards democracy, that is all about to change. Now is the time to see Bagan before the chain hotels and fast food outlets arrive.
agan’s claim to fame is that it boasts the largest single concentration of Buddhist temples in the world – there are remnants of over 4,000, including almost 2,000 that are virtually in pristine condition. Many of these date from the 10th – 14th centuries. Best of all, Bagan is a compact little place, set on a flat plain by the iconic Irrawaddy River and the whole town can be explored either on foot or by bicycle. This is as laid back a place as you could hope to find. You very well may have a 1,000 year old Buddhist relic all to yourself. The nightlife scene is non-existent, but it is not bereft of fine dining and boutique chic accommodation – there are some lovely upmarket places to stay which feel like ancient landmarks in their very own right. Due to its size, it is quite feasible to do Bagan in a day but this pace of life is addictive and a visit to one solitary temple is never enough.
Bird’s Eye Bagan
You’ll need to rise early but you can you can really get a taste for the city’s ancient grandeur and its skyline of glistening golden pagodas. Climb aboard for a dawn champagne balloon flight, floating lazily over thousand year old temples and the majestic Irrawaddy River. It’s an exhilarating start to the day and at first light, you’ll be hard pushed to find a more photogenic scene anywhere else on the planet.
Balloons over Bagan, book through Sedona Hotel, Yangon Myanmar Tel: + 951 652809
Ancient Wonders
So many temples, so little time… If it has to be only one, then the majestic Ananda Pahto temple is hard to resist. This is an 11th century masterpiece built by Indian monks, with pristine reliefs made of sandstone, teak and bronze along with four mammoth golden Buddha statues. A truly magical sight as dusk falls.
Ananda Pahto Temple Tharabar Gate, Old Bagan
Take the Slow Boat
Even Rudyard Kipling’s Road to Mandalay wasn’t this much fun. Leaving from Bagan, take the slow boat to the Royal city of Mandalay, gliding lazily along the Irrawaddy River. You get to kick back in lavish colonial-style cabins furnished in antique rattan and teak and a deliciously authentic saloon bar. Dress for dinner and enjoy a timeless journey through Myanmar’s rural heartland, itself a throwback to a bygone age.
Ayrevati Cruises No25, 38th Street, Kyauktada, Yangon Tel: +951 380877
By Ray Montgomery
