Ann Demeulemeester’s Walking Paradox

Playing with paradoxes, the highly acclaimed European designer, Ann Demeulemeester provoked an image of duality as she mixed light and dark, the beautiful and the deadly in her Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear 2013 collection in Paris.

ith an air of orientalism, the exquisite tailoring of Demeulemeester gives a silent nod to Japanese fashion in that her designs, like the country’s style, can be both provocative and smart whilst always looking well-put-together. Though the collection appears dramatic – as is the nature of catwalks –  one can still see how it may translate  into streets style.

Juxtaposing trails of spiralling chiffon against stiff, sculptural harnesses and breastplates, Demeulemeester’s S/S 2013 collection created a look of powerful austerity, dominating the catwalk with butterfly-inspired garments. Intrigued by the “duality of butterflies,” the flowing, delicate trails were reminiscent of ethereal wings, whilst solid black leather belts and tailored blazers gave the pieces structure and body. Though the collection was dominated by black, it still had a distinct element of romanticism. As you can see, this was a collection of extremes – a kind of rebellion – staying true to Demeulemeester’s philosophy that [quote align=”center” color=”#b64736″]”good fashion is like rock music. All anarchy and revolt.”[/quote]

By Roberta Phillips

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